1920’s dress

To say I’ve been thinking about making a dress like this for a while would be an understatement. I first saw this elegant black dress in the Downton Abbey Christmas special and immediately fell in love with it. Simple yet classy. I went ahead and did a few sketches and thought about it for a while, then got frustrated with the idea and put it away.
Then I started watching ‘The House of Eliott‘ (for those who don’t know, it’s a TV show from the 1990’s set in 1920’s London). And saw Beatrice wear a dress exactly like my dream dress and though “wow, they must have a pattern for it at the BBC”. Then I realised it’s probably the very same dress, reused for Downton Abbey 20 years later!
Since I couldn’t get it out of my head, I pulled out the old ideas, did some (lots) of research on simple 1920’s shapes and went ahead with a soft navy blue jersey as a test (the ultimate goal being a silk dress). I seem to be going through a navy blue phase recently. I reused parts of the Salme Kimono dress pattern and pretty much added everything else freely:
1920s dress. tidytipsy
To be honest, I actually made three versions of this: one muslin, one in sheer blue cotton fabric which turned out way too stiff and this one in jersey.
1920s dress. tidytipsy
It’s incredibly comfortable (I should sew with jersey more often!) and lovely to wear and it’s quite close to the original idea though not as perfect as I’d hoped.
In detail:
– I think the original dress has set in sleeves and less drape and ease in the sleeves. The original also has some pleating detail at the shoulder right where the sleeve inset is.
– I was so scared of the neckline stretching that I stabilized the hell out of it, sewing a cotton strip to it and then finishing it with bias binding. In retrospect I really wish I had drafted a facing for the neckline and I definitely will if I should ever actually make this dress in silk.
– The sleeves are a bit too short but I can live with it.
1920s dress. tidytipsy
The fabric belt is sewn to the dress, which is ok, though I’m already thinking of a version with a band attached between top and bottom. As for sewing with jersey, I’ve only tried it once or twice before and it always puts me in a dilemma: I love how soft and drapey jersey is and would like to sew with it more. On the other hand my main sewing machine (and really the only one I feel completely comfortable with, no matter how hard I try to love my other machines) is straight stitch only.
The solution for me is just to ignore the problem and sew jersey with a ballpoint needle straight stitch. Please don’t tell anyone. It kinda works though.
1920s dress. tidytipsy
1920s dress. tidytipsy


10 thoughts on “1920’s dress

  1. laricci smunch

    This is so cool! I am so impressed with your drafting and refashioning skills. I really like how it looks with the blazer, too.


  2. Jeanne Ireland

    What a wonderfully versatile dress. I do so admire your skill and talent in making something so beautiful from something you have seen. Where is “The House of Elliott” on t.v. I loved that show and would love to see it again.


  3. lsaspacey

    Dress looks great! I just spent some quality time going through Google looking at stills from the House of Eliot. I loved that show and would sketch the dresses as I watched it on PBS. Did you know it was created by the same duo that created both versions of Upstairs Downstairs, Eileen Atkins and Jean Smart?


  4. Kristina

    Thanks so much everyone :))
    @Zhenya: I used the Salme Kimono Dress pattern as a basis and drafted all other parts myself
    @Lauren, yep I love that red blazer! It’s so great to style an outfit up 🙂
    @Jeanne, you can watch the whole series on youtube.
    @Isa, House of Eliott is soo inspiring for dressmaking, particularly the first and second season, such gorgeous dresses! I’ve never even seen Upstairs, Downstairs but I plan to!


    1. Kristina

      Thanks Amber 🙂 I bought the shoes specifically because they looked to 1920’s/1930’s to me! No worries, I know what it’s like to never have enough time 🙂



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